Here's Everything (Yes, Everything!) You Need To Know About Going Gray

Silver, gray, white, platinum, salt-and-pepper. No matter how you describe your incoming gray strands, gray hair is a near universal experience shared by many of us at some point in time. And how you choose to wear your gray—whether by coloring it, embracing it, or somewhere in between—is entirely up to you. 

However, as hair loses pigment, the fiber does experience some changes. This means that you may need to make some adjustments to your hair care routine, no matter what. As someone who is just beginning their graying journey (which I chose to cover up with blonde highlights at this point in my life), I certainly can see differences in the texture of these budding new strands. 

So I tapped hair care experts, and some research, on how best to care for silvering hair. Here, a complete guide to caring for gray hair.   

No matter if your grays start in your 20s or not till your 80s. No matter if your onset of silver is triggered by stressful situations in life or good ole fashion genetics. No matter if your whole head turns platinum or just a bit of salt-and-pepper around the temples and hairline. No matter how you experience silvering hair, the mechanisms behind graying hair are all the same: Gray hair is simply the lack of color in a strand. 

There are cells present in your skin (scalp included) called melanocytes that produce pigment, which colors your hair and skin. Due to genetics, age, health considerations, and external influences these melanocytes decrease in number. This decline is similar to how other elements in our skin decline, like collagen, elastin, and so on. With this change, hair is no longer as pigmented so it begins to appear more gray or white. 

This may start in select areas on the scalp (temples for example), and then expand with time. When exactly this process starts is dependent on the individual—not to mention many things can influence how your hair grays, so it can be hard to predict when it will or how quickly. 

1.

Come up with a game plan with a professional. 

Whether you decide to cover your whole head with color or embrace the silver coming in, lean on your stylist’s or colorist’s expertise. "To avoid jeopardizing the health of the hair, you need a long-term plan," says celebrity colorist Abby Haliti. "This may take a few salon visits, but it is so worth it when you have the results you desired in the end and didn't risk the health of your hair." A hair pro will help you evaluate your (many!) options, teach you about your gray hair’s nuance, give you product recommendations, and more. 

Because ultimately, there are several routes you can take when you start to go silver. For example, if your white strands are sporadic, you may consider blending them in with highlights (it’s often called “silver blending.”) Or if you’ve been dyeing your entire head, but now want to embrace the natural color, they can help make the process smoother—to avoid a blunt line. And if you only have a few gaps at target spots, they’ll help you find your perfect color match and “spot treat” with dye—so you don’t have to commit to a full process if you don’t want to. 

In addition to advice about the color itself, they can help you find a new cut to complement your texture and platinum locks. While changing your style isn’t necessarily, it can help give your gray strands a fresher appearance. 

2.

Update your hair care arsenal. 

When hair starts to go gray, the texture changes. Silver strands often feel coarser, drier, and more wiry. In addition, they can also be more porous and prone to frizz. So this may mean a change to your standard go-to hair care products. 

A few things to consider, if you haven’t already: 

3.

Address oxidative stress. 

Growing research shows the very strong connection between oxidative stress triggered by free radicals and premature graying. Much like oxidative stress depletes things in our skin like collagen and elastin, it is also thought to deplete pigment-producing cells.  

As a small dossier: Oxidative stress is what happens when the body’s free radical levels outnumber the antioxidant levels for a prolonged period. This imbalance wreaks havoc on the body, hair included. Oxidative stress can be triggered by inflammation-causing diets, psychological stress, and external factors (like pollution).

You can reduce or manage your oxidative stress with lifestyle changes (you know, like stress management) and through antioxidants (both topical and oral). Look for hair care products that are loaded with antioxidant-rich botanicals, and opt for hair enhancing vitamins.

These certainly won’t reverse graying, but with regular use they can help your hair and scalp be its healthiest.