I swapped the Med for a long summer weekend in Stockholm’s archipelago

More fool me, but Stockholm had never made it onto my holiday hitlist – let alone my summer one. When a 24-hour work trip stretched into a long weekend exploring the city and its surrounding archipelago, I came home convinced it’s one of Europe's most underrated summer destinations.

I’m clearly not alone in falling for Stockholm's seasonal charm. As Southern Europe swelters through increasingly punishing summers, travellers are looking north. For those seeking cooler climes, Scandi tourism is having a moment.

Sweden recorded a record 7.58 million guest nights in June 2026, while Norway saw foreign guest nights rise 17 per cent from July 2024. With temperatures in the Med regularly climbing into the mid-30Cs, Sweden’s gentler 20-25C summers – coupled with long daylight hours – are increasingly seductive.

And there’s plenty to fill those long, light days. Hike through the lush island landscapes of Grinda, cycle past castles and colourful wooden houses, island-hop by ferry or kayak through the archipelago’s glassy waters. Stockholm is encircled by a coastal labyrinth of some 30,000 islands and islets stretching out into the Baltic, making it a rare capital where a city break can so easily become a seaside escape.

Read more: Why you should slow down on Sweden’s islands this summer

On a guided boat trip to Vaxholm, the historic capital of the archipelago, we cruised past scarlet wooden cottages, grand archipelago “mansions”, dense pine forests and smooth granite shorelines that rival Croatia or Italy. The public ferries make exploring wonderfully easy, while those with a little more nautical ambition can hire a boat and set their own course.

Vaxholm itself is a pure summer postcard: 19th-century pastel houses, a 16th-century fortress and rocky swimming spots for plunging into the Baltic (as baltic as you’d expect). At Hembygdsgårds, a cafe created from a local resident’s former home, the fika offering is near-theatrical, with a towering self-service cake table. After salty sea dips and a stroll through the protected nature reserve, we ended the afternoon at Magasinet, an old smithy transformed into an idyllic waterfront cafe and bar.

Closer to the city, Fjäderholmarna – Stockholm's nearest neighbour – can be explored in a morning, while Djurgården deserves considerably longer. The island is home to some of the city’s best museums, from pop royalty at the ABBA Museum to the extraordinary Vasa Museum, where a remarkably preserved 17th-century warship dominates the gallery. Onwards to Skansen – the world’s oldest open-air museum and zoo – where Sweden’s past is brought to life across 150 historic buildings, alongside Nordic animals.

If the rise of the “coolcation” has taught us anything, it’s that Scandinavia doesn’t need to compete with the South on the South’s terms. Stockholm is creating its own version of the beach club, with hotels such as Ellery House offering three outdoor pools, a sea-view wooden sauna and a full suite of spa facilities. It’s become as much of a social haunt for locals as a retreat for visitors.

Wellness here embraces ancient Nordic traditions of nature, sauna and cold water therapy. The latest “Viking wellness” trend is less concerned with elaborate pampering than with getting back to basics. Yasuragi, nestled among pines in the Stockholm archipelago, is where Swedish bastu rituals combine with Japanese-inspired interiors.

The hotel’s outdoor and indoor bathhouses are as much social spaces as places for restoration, with guests and locals lingering in thermal pools over wine, beer and tea as the evening beneath the stars stretches on. Sea air and water therapy sent me back to Stockholm with a spring in my step.

Read more: Doctors are now ‘prescribing’ Sweden – this is why I agree

Back in the city, the hotel scene reflects the city’s world-famous design sensibility, from townhouse hideaways to waterfront institutions. At the top of your list should be Ett Hem, Ilse Crawford’s celebrated 1910 townhouse, where Swedish craftsmanship, contemporary design and a residential feel make it more like staying in an impossibly chic private home. Villa Dahlia brings a more playful, Italian-meets-Scandi sensibility to Vasastan, with a buzzy rooftop bar, curated art and softly furnished rooms flooded with light.

Hotel Diplomat offers classic Art Nouveau glamour with a distinctly Swedish polish on elegant Strandvägen, while At Six puts art and modernist design centre stage, with a striking Brutalist-inspired interior and museum-worthy collection. And then there’s Grand Hôtel, Stockholm’s grande dame since 1874, where historic glamour, waterfront views and contemporary touches make it the city’s most classic luxury stay.

A city that birthed Acne Studios, H&M and Toteme is naturally a stylish one. Don’t miss these labels’ flagship or archive stores – and their discounted prices – but be sure to shop vintage too, from the hidden gems found at Nitty Gritty on Södermalm island, to Broadway & Sons, a military surplus store, and the Our Legacy workshop. For design lovers, Svenskt Tenn is a must-visit. Founded in 1924, the design company’s showroom is like wandering through a time capsule – even if you leave empty-handed, you’ll have more interior inspiration than you know what to do with.

Stockholm’s distinctive food identity isn’t limited to meatballs (though Restaurant Tradition, Pelikan and Tennstopet are essential spots). Mornings can be spent savouring pastries and cardamom buns at bakeries such as Lillebrors Bageri and the viral Stora Bageriet, while lunchtime calls for a wander through Östermalms Saluhall, a magnificent market hall serving the city since 1888. As in Copenhagen, people spill out onto waterfront terraces and bars come evening, with summertime favourites including Norr Mälarstrand, Angbatsbryggan, Strandbryggan and Loopen.

The day after I landed back home, my parents were coincidentally setting off to Sweden for their summer holiday: a road trip up the west coast and into Norway, taking in its spectacular mountainous scenery. I know what’s next on my Scandi hitlist.

How to get there

Flights from all major UK airports – including London Heathrow, London Gatwick, London Stansted, Manchester, Birmingham, and Edinburgh – take around two hours 30 minutes to Stockholm Arlanda Airport. Once arrived, the Arlanda Express shuttle train can get you into the city centre in less than 20 minutes, while taxis take around half an hour. Stockholm’s public ferries run year-round from central docks such as Strömkajen and Nybroviken to thousands of islands in the archipelago.

Read more: Best hotels in Stockholm – where to stay for location and character