The Buzzy Ingredient Promises A Revitalized, Fresh Complexion

Welcome to the Beauty Breakdown, our series that dives into today's buzziest beauty topics. In each, we focus on a different theme and highlight all the need-to-know basics, common mistakes, and the best products to get your hands on.

In the realm of skin care, certain principles are straightforward. When your skin feels dry, you reach for moisturizer. Ahead of a day under the sun, sunscreen is a must. And the inclusion of retinol in a healthy aging routine has become almost second nature to many. However, some concepts remain elusive, and exosomes are a prime example.

As a beauty editor accustomed to testing cutting-edge products, delving into the world of exosomes demanded more thorough investigation than usual. It's a relatively new topic in the beauty space, so there was a lot to get caught up on. But let me assure you: The deep dive was more than worth it.

Clearly, exosomes are a new frontier in skin care technology, and many questions remain unanswered. Nonetheless, they show promise in promoting skin healing and rejuvenation. Allow me to elaborate.

The 101 on exosomes

Think of exosomes as messengers, tiny carriers delivering vital nutrients to your skin and serving as the primary communicators between your cells.

Once applied—whether in a professional setting or at home with trusted over-the-counter products—exosomes are absorbed by target cells at damaged tissue sites, delivering their molecules to stimulate anti-inflammatory and regenerative effects. Once there, they encourage the skin to regenerate components of the skin that may be lost or damaged, such as collagen, elastin, ceramides, and so on.

These are "messengers that can really impact the body, sending cellular signals to increase collagen and other rejuvenative changes," notes board-certified holistic plastic surgeon Anthony Youn, M.D.

To enhance absorption, some experts advocate applying exosomes after procedures like microneedling or laser treatments. Others apply them post-procedure not solely for absorption but also because exosomes aid in skin healing following treatments.

What's more, exosomes are unlike many other treatments for aging skin (think retinol, glycolic acid, and so on) in that exosomes soothe the skin, not irritate it. So, for folks with highly sensitive complexions who have been met with rashes or redness when testing classic aging serums, this is a particularly fitting option.

But where do exosomes come from?

Exosomes can be either synthetically produced or derived from stem cells. Stem cells can be sourced from a variety of places, including plants, animals, and yes, humans.

Now, the notion of human-derived exosomes might raise eyebrows, and I was certainly puzzled by it initially. Certain skin care products, like the ExoCel Bio serum used in dermatology offices, utilize exosomes derived from mesenchymal stem cells, isolated and expanded from a specific layer (the chorion) of healthy, donated human placenta. Naturally, these placentas undergo rigorous screening for communicable diseases and pathogens.

Celebrity esthetician and founder of her namesake beauty brand Angela Caglia sheds light on the rationale behind using human-derived exosomes: Since human skin originates from mesenchymal stem cells, she says, it's logical that it responds favorably to exosomes derived from the same source. Caglia even incorporates human-derived exosomes from adipose tissue into her topical, over-the-counter product called the Cell Forte Serum.

What benefits can you expect from these regenerative properties?

As noted, exosomes are used for the regenerative properties. Here's what that means when you actually get down to it:

3 things we're getting wrong

To make things even more clear, here are a few misconceptions to be wary of: 

The 3 steps you need to know

Now that we've covered the myths, let's get into the best steps for incorporating exosomes in your beauty routine should you feel inspired: 

When searching for a great exosome treatment or product, you should prioritize proven results. Look for clinical study results (photos are a plus) as well as clear messaging as to where the brand or office sources their exosomes. 

If you go into exosome research without a skin or hair growth goal in mind, it's difficult to know what kind of product or treatment will help. Want to address fine lines and wrinkles? Ease discoloration? Speed up healing? Some products are designed to target some concerns and not others, so it's helpful to know what you want from the start. 

Exosomes, like any ingredient in skin care, won't be a magic bullet for anyone. In fact, there are plenty of other ingredients that may be a better fit for your skin concern at hand. Before investing, it's worth asking your dermatologist or esthetician if it's worthwhile, especially if you plan on pouring money into a treatment or high-end product.

3 extra tips

Here, how to get more out of your exosome product or treatment: 

The takeaway

In the ever-evolving world of skin care, exosomes emerge as a revolutionary concept. Acting as potent messengers between cells, they hold promise for skin healing and rejuvenation, whether utilized in professional settings or through over-the-counter products.

However, understanding their intricacies and navigating the diverse array of available options is key to unlocking their full potential in your beauty routine. Here, more on the reality of topical "face-lifts" and other ingredients to consider.