This Alaska City Is Dotted With Glaciers, Hiking Trails & Pristine Waters

About 45 miles outside of Juneau, Alaska, all roads end. Literally. Juneau is the one U.S. state capital that can only be accessed by plane or boat, making it a uniquely tight-knit and self-reliant place.

It's clear the moment you land in Juneau that the people here are close—partially because there are so few of them (31,685 as of the last census) and partially because they don't have access to the same goods and services we do in the lower 48. Luckily, the area's pristine forests, mountains, and channels provide locals with all the natural abundance they could need. Eavesdrop on conversations here, and you're sure to hear tales of picking sweet berries, catching fish the size of one's torso, and hunting enough caribou to last the cold winters.

The varied nature surrounding the city makes it any hiker, fisher, or adventurer's dream, but Juneau also has plenty to entertain those who would rather stay indoors and enjoy the view. While it does have ski access during winter, the city is best visited in the summer—when the sun shines on whale-watching tours, glacial hikes, and beach picnics for up to 18 hours a day.

While it may not be your typical wellness destination, Juneau is a treat for the eyes, the tastebuds, and the soul. Once your plane touches down or your barge pulls up, here are some ways to explore all it has to offer.

Built in 1915, the Jorgenson is a historic bed and breakfast filled with photographs that tell the rich history of Alaska. But it also has all the modern amenities a weary traveler could want: Luxurious beds, blackout shades to shield the everlasting summer sun, and hot showers to soak in after a long day exploring.

You may come here for the cozy rooms, but you'll stay for the food. When I visited the Jorgenson on a recent trip to learn about the Alaska seafood industry, Chef Amara Enciso made three-course breakfasts worth writing home about. Think avocado lox toast with perfectly poached eggs, mouthwatering fruit pastries, and flavorful homemade granola. If you're as wowed by the eats as I was, you'll want to book a private cooking class with Chef to get your hands on delicacies like fresh rhubarb pulled from just up the street and oysters caught in the bay that day.

This Jorgenson is well situated between downtown Juneau and nearby scenic trails. Once you're done exploring for the day, return to sit in its quant garden and see if you can keep your eyes open late enough to catch a summer sunset.

Seasoned fishers and newbies alike will want to check out the fishing charters available just a short drive from downtown Juneau.

Even though I'm a city girl with zero experience fishing, I really enjoyed the half-day charter with 49th Fathom Charters on the Lynn Canal; the longest and deepest in North America. My guides were very helpful in showing me the ropes, walking me through the process, and helping to filet the halibut I caught (yes, I caught a fish!) so I could enjoy it at home. It didn't hurt that we were surrounded by stunning mountains and glaciers throughout the voyage. I could have, however, done with another layer of clothes or two. Even if you head to Juneau during summer like I did, I strongly advise packing more warm clothes than you think you'll need.

Another thing to note is that Alaska is very strict on fishing quotas, and you'll need to get a permit in order to fish recreationally. This hearkens back to the state's commitment to sustainable fisheries: Alaskans take great pride in ensuring that their stocks of salmon, sablefish, king crab, and more are healthy.

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Head out on a whale watching voyage

Not looking to take home dinner? Whale-watching tours offer a more relaxing way to enjoy Alaska's picturesque waters and sea life. I loved hopping aboard Alaska Tales tours, which bring you right up alongside humpback whales that frequent the area. Knowledgeable tour guides are able to identify each whale by its tale and tell you a bit about its backstory. If you spot a whale that is new to the area, you even get to name it! And on the off chance you don't see any whales on your trip, they'll refund you.

As you trail these stunning creatures, you'll probably spot some other incredible wildlife too—including Steller sea lions, bald eagles, and plenty of bears.

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Hike Perseverance trail

In Juneau, it's not uncommon to eat at least three servings of seafood in one day. And you should definitely make the salmon lunch at Taku Glacier Lodge one of them.

Taku Lodge is a century-old outpost with a fascinating history (which you'll learn all about over your meal). Lunch is only served for a handful of guests a day, so it's on the pricey side. However, Taku isn't so much of a meal as it is an experience: To get to the remote lodge, you'll need to take a 15-minute seaplane ride from downtown Juneau. Along the way to lunch, you'll weave through the ice-capped mountains and fly above glacial moraines. What other meal starts with that appetizer?

Upon landing, you'll have some time to explore the surrounding woods and wildflower trails before your lunch. After feasting on grilled salmon, biscuits, beans, and other barbecue fixins, you can spend some time soaking up the nearby glaciers (potentially spotting a curious bear, too) before hitching your ride back to town. As someone who doesn't love heights, I was nervous about the seaplane, but the views made it well worth it. It's an experience I'd highly recommend—even to my fellow airplane-phobes.

The dining scene in downtown Juneau is somewhat limited, but In Bocca Al Lupo is as tasty as any Italian spot you'll find in a more bustling city. The name translates to "into the wolf's mouth"—a phrase for good luck in Italian—and epitomizes the spirit of the place: It's a little funky and whimsical, but comforting all the same.

Its menu rotates based on what the Alaska wilderness has in season. When I visited, the marinated spot prawns, fresh scallop pasta, and anchovy-laden Caesar dressing were highlights. The chef, Beau Schooler, is a James Beard nominee who was named “Best Seafood Chef” at the Great American Seafood Cook-Off a few years back, so you can bet that all the seafood is wonderful. This place is beloved by both locals and visitors, so make a reservation.