Why Abersoch has become one of the most sought-after staycation spots

I’ve given up on going abroad. At least for now.

I’ve got two young kids and it’s a hassle. The flight delays, the lost car seats, the inevitable disappointment when you realise the pool is freezing and the kids club is just a shed that’s open for half an hour a day. And that’s before you throw in fuel shortages and the insane financial hit of leaving the country.

North Wales was an easy first choice; wild, beautiful and crucially, far more affordable than anywhere closer to London (I’m looking at you, the Cotswolds).

The seaside town of Abersoch on the Llyn Peninsula was already vaguely on my radar because influencer extraordinaire Molly Mae went there to destress on her recent docu-series Behind It All – apparently resulting in a 208 per cent spike in visitors. When I found an immaculate bungalow in nearby Llanbedrog, I decided to give it a whirl. Turns out, I was influenced, too.

Just five minutes down the road from Abersoch, it’s close enough to dip in, but far enough away to avoid the crowds that descend in summer, when the so-called Welsh Riviera is in full swing.

Our peaceful stone bungalow was perfect for our multi-generational trip (my parents came too); no stairs to worry about, travel cots and high chairs provided – and gardens so everyone could disappear when needed. There was even a resident woodpecker to remind us we’d truly escaped city life.

A short walk away, Llanbedrog beach was an instant hit. Wide, clean and a lot quieter than the ones down the road in Abersoch, where beach huts change hands for upwards of £250,000. Here, at our understated local, the kids could play in the sand while the grown ups enjoyed tea and scones (or a gin and tonic) at Aqua, the chilled beach bar. Heaven.

The tiny village is also home to Plas Glyn-Y Weddw, an art gallery housed in a Gothic mansion. It’s an unlikely place to stumble across such a grand tourist attraction that brings in 140,000 visitors a year, but that’s Llanbedrog for you; full of surprises. In the summer, the venue hosts outdoor theatre performances and activities for families. The gallery’s new cafe looks more like a spaceship than a tearoom and is well worth a visit in its own right. We went twice.

As a dedicated celebrity stalker, I couldn’t spend all my time swanning around art galleries and watching my kids paddling in the Irish Sea. I needed to follow in Molly Mae’s footsteps, so I’d done my research and booked us into the holiday resort she’d stayed at, The Warren, for an early dinner.

Read more: The best towns and villages to visit in the Lake District

The resort itself felt a little soulless, like an eerily silent Centre Parcs, but it was a different story at the restaurant, where by 5pm, the beachfront terrace was already busy and buzzing. From our table, we peered out over St Tudwal’s, the private island owned by Bear Grylls and enjoyed fish and chips while the waitress gave my eldest his first Welsh lesson.

Back in Llanbedrog, Tremfan Hall, a huge house overlooking Cardigan Bay, came highly recommended for dinner. If this was a more grownup holiday, I’d have been there in a flash, but I feared my two boys would run riot and instead we opted for simpler pleasures.

Abersoch delivered on that front. Family-run Crust Pizzeria on the harbour front and Manana on the high street were both really excellent, with queues snaking out the doors at both. We also planned to go to The Potted Lobster, having had a fantastic meal at the sister restaurant in Northumberland many years ago, but we were naively unaware of how quickly it would book up and missed our chance. Be warned.

Read more: Once a year, silent film fans from around the world descend on this tiny Scottish town

With two train-obsessed boys, Ffestiniog Railway, the world’s oldest narrow gauge railway, was also a non-negotiable day trip. I wasn’t sold, if I’m honest, but it turned out to be a highlight. The steam engines climb high up into the mountains of Snowdonia, passing forests, lakes and waterfalls along the way. It was really rather magical – plus the staff were some of the friendliest folk I’ve ever encountered.

There was far more to explore – boat trips, dolphin-spotting, crabbing at sunset, pony trekking – but the draw of the slow life, of jigsaws in the bungalow and afternoon naps, was strong.

No matter, I’ll be back. Who needs to get on a flight, when you’ve got a whole new country to explore right on your doorstep?

How to do it

Abersoch is difficult to access via public transport. The nearest railway station is Pwllheli, accessible via Transport for Wales branch lines, which is a 15 minute-drive or 30-minute bus away. Otherwise, it’s a three-and-a-half hour drive from Birmingham and a six-hour drive from London or Edinburgh.

Where to stay

We stayed at the charming Llyn Orta cottage in Llanbedrog, booked through Holiday Cottages. It sleeps six people across three bedrooms. A four-night stay, beginning on a Friday, starts at £684.