A Beauty Editor's Guide To Dark Spots — Everything You'll Ever Need To Know

Dark spots are a skin concern that are near universal—they can affect folks of all skin types and tones, show up when you’re young and old, appear on any area of the body, and are triggered by a wide variety of factors and environmental influences. 

Treating them takes a dash more nuance than one might expect. So many folks think you can just exfoliate them away—and while it’s certainly an important step in the process, it’s not the only thing to consider. (Not to mention that if you overdo it, you run the risk of triggering more inflammation in the skin—potentially making the situation worse.) So in an effort to shed some light on dark spots, we present to you everything you need to know about this common skin concern. 

Read on for our best and brightest advice. 

Put simply, dark spots are areas of skin that appear darker than the rest of the complexion. "Dark spots are often the result of a grouping of cells within the skin that overproduce the pigment melanin, or the result of melanin being deposited in the surrounding epidermis and dermis," board-certified dermatologist and YouTube creator Andrea Suarez, M.D., FAAD, tells mindbodygreen about dark spots. 

In our skin there are things called melanocytes, which are the cells responsible for producing pigment in the skin. When our skin is inflamed—be that from UV radiation, acne, hormones, or something else—it stimulates these melanocytes1 to create more pigment. The result? Spots or patches in the epidermis that are a darker hue than the rest of the complexion 

They often appear on areas of the skin that are exposed to sunlight (such as the chest, back of hands, and cheeks), but can also appear anywhere on the face or body that has experienced inflammation or trauma, such as acne. 

And while these are most often traced back to UV exposure, it’s not the only thing that contributes to it. In fact, there are several types of dark spots. 

1.

Build out your sun care arsenal

Practicing smart sun takes a well-rounded, nuanced approach. To start, it means you should be mindful of the time you do spend in the sun. Applying SPF is not an excuse to sunbathe for sport. While we believe spending time outdoors is important for your overall health, treating a tanning session like you're training for a marathon isn’t the move. Use your outdoor time wisely: Avoid too much time during peak UV hours and use accessories like hats, sunglasses, and UFP shirts. 

OK, now onto sunscreen. "The best sunscreen is the sunscreen that you'll actually wear," says holistic esthetician Lesley Thornton, founder of KLUR. "I don't argue with people about sunscreen types. Do you wear it? Great." We like these mineral options, but ultimately it’s just about finding products you enjoy. 

I also recommend creating a sunscreen wardrobe, so you have products for many types of occasions: Water-resistant full body options for the beach, stick formulas for on the go, facial powders for reapplication, and several facial lotions depending on what you’re up-to that day (i.e. one for under makeup and one for bare face.) While this advice may have seemed silly a decade ago, now-a-days there are so many amazing and varied sunscreen options on the market to suit any need. 

It also means caring for the skin apres sun as well: If you’ve just spent a day at the beach, be sure to hydrate and soothe skin, to minimize any potential inflammation in the skin. In this use case, aloe vera is a popular ingredient for a reason: This comes down to one of the compounds in the juice, aloesin.

Aloesin has brightening capabilities that can help speed up this fading process. In one study, when aloe was applied to skin four times per day for two weeks, aloesin was shown to effectively fade post-acne hyperpigmentation4. Another report showed that topical application of aloesin can directly inhibit hyperpigmented skin from producing more melanin. 

2.

Visit a professional who works with skin tones like yours

We are big believers in finding your skin care person—a professional (like an esthetician, dermatologist or aesthetic nurse practitioner) who can help you care for skin. 

With dark spots in particular, this is important as not all advice can be universally applied. For example, broadband light (BBL) lasers are never appropriate for darker skin tones. In addition, other types of lasers need to be set to lower settings when working on skin of color so as not to trigger more dark spots—thus it’s very important to go to a pro who knows exactly how to treat your skin tone. 

Or on the ingredient front, hydroquinone (a commonly prescribed “skin lightener”) can actually have the reverse effect on the skin: “"Hydroquinone in some people with darker skin carries a rare risk of a paradoxical darkening of the skin,” says board-certified dermatologist Jeremy Fenton, M.D., of Schweiger Dermatology Group in NYC. While this is rare, lots of folks chose to avoid it to be extra cautious. On the product front, look for brands who note that they test on a wide variety of skin tones—especially with strong chemical exfoliators. For example, the Ourself peel we mention below.

Ultimately: “You need to make sure you're getting treated for your skin tone. If you go into the waiting room, and there's no one that looks like you—ask the doctor a million questions,” says board-certified dermatologist Jeanine Downie, M.D. once told me about finding a dermatologist on my podcast Clean Beauty School.  

Exfoliation is an extremely useful tool in fading dark spots. It is the process by which you remove the outer layer of dead skin cells (also called the stratum corneum) from the epidermis. In doing so, you remove some of the tinted skin cells that are creating the appearance of dark spots. This can be done manually (like with physical exfoliators such as scrubs) or chemically (like with AHAs and BHAs).

But just because it’s useful, doesn’t mean it can’t have adverse consequences when overdone. Over exfoliation strips the skin of its protective barrier, and ultimately triggers inflammation in the skin—the thing contributing to dark spots in the first place.

While everyone’s exfoliatin tolerance is different, a general guideline is one to three times a week. Another important factor to consider is the strength of the exfoliator. A good guideline for folks here:

4.

Use smart face care formulas

Yes, you can treat dark spots internally. While this won’t fade dark spots that are currently present on the surface, it will limit forming new ones as well as improving overall appearance and tone. Consume antioxidants and nutrients that can help skin deal with photodamage, such as astaxanthin, pomegranate extract, and vitamin C. 

Pomegranate has been shown in clinical studies to have the ability to enhance photoprotection11 in the skin, meaning your skin cells are better equipped to deal with UV rays and their subsequent effects. For example, one randomized controlled trial found that the pomegranate extract increased skin's resilience12 against UVB rays, as well as changes to the skin microbiome.

Vitamin C is considered a do-it-all ingredient for the skin, and it holds that same reputation when taken internally. Studies have shown that it can manage oxidative stress in cells thanks to its antioxidant properties—this not only supports skin cell health but can help support skin from previous UV damage13. Astaxanthin is another powerful antioxidant. One study found astaxanthin improved skin wrinkles, age spot size, and skin texture14.

For our selects of the best beauty supplements that can help with dark spots, check out this list.