Caring For Curls? How To Keep Them Smooth & Hydrated

Type 2 constitutes wavy hair, while type 3 is strictly curls. The main defining feature between type 2 and 3 is the “S” shape—if you have occasional waves but never quite form a ringlet, then you’re probably type 2. 

However, type 3 curls have a wide range as well. Anyone with 3a curls will have wider ringlets, while those with 3b curls have a bit tighter form. Type 3c is the tightest form of curls before entering type 4, which is coils. 

Want to dive deeper? For more information, check out our guides to type 2, type 3, and type 4.

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Now that you know where type 3b fits, let’s dive into what it looks like. “3b hair is all about the curl—people with type 3b hair tend to have tight, springy curls with a lot of volume,” stylist Cassandra Olivia tells mbg. 

“Each curl is usually no bigger than a highlighter or a marker, even across different hair textures,” she adds. If your curls are larger than a marker, then you probably fall into the 3a category instead.

Think of 3b strands like a loose corkscrew with a bit of texture, frizz, and tons of volume. Of course, like any hair type, you can have a few 2c waves or 3c curls thrown in the mix, so judge your hair based on the most predominant curl shape. 

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1.

Don’t overwash your curls. 

“Wash 1-2 times per week, or honestly as needed,” Olivia says. “If you wash 3b hair too much, you’re stripping hair of its much-needed natural moisture,” she says. When the hair is stripped of moisture, your curls will have trouble holding shape. 

“It’s harder for natural oils to travel down 3b hair compared to straight hair, so you want to make sure you keep those oils in your hair as much as possible. When you do wash, choose a shampoo and conditioner made specifically for curly hair,” she adds. 

2.

Use a clean, hydrating wash routine. 

“Using a clean shampoo and conditioner system like NTRL by Sabs' LavRiche Collection will ensure you have a clean and healthy scalp while not losing your precious natural oils,” celebrity stylist and founder of NTRL by Sabs Sabrina Rowe Holdsworth tells mbg. 

The key here is to find a shampoo that gets the job done, without drying out your scalp or strands. Just as with any hair type, be sure to exclusively cleanse the scalp and let the excess product rinse through your strands, rather than rubbing shampoo directly on your hair shaft and ends. 

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3.

Swap your light conditioner for a heavy hitter during dry periods. 

As Holdsworth and Olivia note, 3b hair needs tons of moisture. A lightweight conditioner may work for your regular wash routine (and help to mitigate any buildup dragging down your curls), but adding a nourishing hair mask to the mix every other week or so is a good idea. 

Or, you can rotate in these rich conditioners when the dry weather hits. Just as you might use a heavier moisturizer during winter, you shouldn’t hesitate to address your hair’s changing needs. 

Call upon rich masks to ease situational dryness as well—be it post-swim, after an intense blowout, while traveling, etc.

Nourishing masks with plant butters, botanical oils, and loads of vitamins will give your hair a reboot if you’re experiencing dry, lackluster hair. Add one of these ultra-hydrating masks to your routine every other week—think of it like an IV drip for your strands. 

4.

Detangle, but don’t destroy. 

“I think detangling is necessary for a successful wash day but needs to be a delicate process,” Holdsworth explains. “3b curls are very delicate and can be fickle,” she adds. Rather than raking a brush through your hair, run a wide-toothed comb through your strands while it’s still wet (or even while your conditioner sets in). 

“Once you have detangled the hair I prefer to abandon brushes or combs and use your hands for air drying and styling,” she adds. When your hair begins to dry, brushing it may lead to frizz and a broken curl shape, so stick with finger-styling. 

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5.

Don’t forget about your diffuser. 

If you don’t like waiting for your hair to dry, then call upon your trusty diffuser. These tools work like magic to dry the strands, reduce frizz, and enhance curl shape simultaneously—but always apply a heat protectant before going in with your dryer. 

Or, if you’re dealing with loads of heat damage, opt for something like the Zuvi Halo Hair Dryer—a tool that uses light to dry the hair, rather than heat. The dryer comes with a diffuser attachment, so keep that on hand. 

Not sure how to use one? Here’s a step-by-step guide to get you started. 

7.

Keep your creams light. 

“I love products but this hair type can also be fine in which case less product is more,” Holdsworth notes. “You want soft weight to combat some frizz but not take away volume,” she says—AKA, opt for lightweight formulas. 

“Think airy mousse and light creams over heavy gels,” she says. When it comes to leave-in conditioners, pick something deeply nourishing but still light to the touch, like the Pattern Leave-In Conditioner. 

“Hair should be fun, even if it requires some work, and I believe curls are the MOST fun pattern you can have,” Holdsworth says. One key to loving your curls: Give yourself enough time to style them however you like, rather than rush to the finish line. 

If you have adequate time available, you can treat the process of washing and styling as a ritual, rather than a chore. It may sound dramatic, but if you put on your favorite music, wear your favorite comfy pajama set, and light a candle, your hair care routine may turn out to be something you look forward to. 

“Experiment with different methods of washing, styling, and drying so you can really learn to appreciate your fabulous hair,” she adds. Don’t be afraid to ask around and see what your curly friends and family love—some of the best products and practices are passed via word of mouth. 

Best shampoo

NTRL By Sabs

Nourishing Shampoo

$30

Curly folks shouldn't just use any regular conditioner out there—try to find something hydrating and non-stripping like this formula from NTRL. Given that you'll likely be washing your hair every few days or so, this 8 ounce bottle will last you longer than you might think.

Best curl cream

Leaf + Flower

CBD Instant Curl Defining Cream

$34

This curl cream is packed with hair-loving nutrients, yet the texture is light as can be. Add one or two dollops of product to your palm, add a splash of water to emulsify the formula, then rake through the hair from mid-shafts to ends. Then, crunch and style however you like and watch your curls bounce back to life.

Best co-wash

Hairstory

New Wash Original

$44

Have you ever heard of a shampoo alternative? If not, welcome to the world of hydrating cleansing—it just might change your hair forever. Sub out your normal shampoo with this co-wash whenever your strands feel dry, or make it your staple product if your hair loves it.

Best leave-in

Pattern

Leave-In Conditioner

$25

After you cleanse your hair, you'll want to replenish the moisture. This universally-loved cream is great for curls, coils, and tight texture, providing hydration and shine that will mask excess frizz, without weighing down your prized curl shape.

Best treatment

Shaz + Kiks

Scalp + Hair Prewash For Curly Hair

$62

Now you can't focus all of your attention on the strands, as healthy hair starts at the scalp. This powerhouse treatment delivers a host of vitamins straight to the scalp, while anti-bacterial and anti-fungal ingredients including neem and turmeric oils help to improve scalp dryness and sensitivity.