I sailed the Rhine on a family-friendly river cruise and my kids loved it – even without any waterslides

Cruise expert Marc Shoffman explored the Netherlands and Germany with his children on A-Rosa Sena

I sailed the Rhine on a family-friendly river cruise and my kids loved it – even without any waterslides

“Any English speakers?” the captain asked as he greeted guests on A-Rosa Sena, keen to ensure everyone was welcome on the mainly German language river cruise ship.

Among the 312 passengers on the ship, only around 60, it transpired, spoke English. But that wasn’t the most unusual aspect for this river cruise. It was more interesting that kids are allowed on board.

The river cruise market has been growing in recent years but there are not many options for parents like me who want to bring their young children with them.

A-Rosa Sena is recognisable on the Rhine with its lips on the bow

A-Rosa Sena is recognisable on the Rhine with its lips on the bow (Marc Shoffman)

Most major river cruise brands are adult-only or have few kids’ facilities. That is understandable as one of the benefits of a river cruise is the relaxed vibe as you float through major cities.

No one wants unruly kids ruining that but A-Rosa – which has been offering child-friendly river cruises since 2002 – appears to have found a way to welcome families without the need for waterslides or 24-hour entertainment. I took my wife and our two daughters, aged 11 and 13, to Cologne for a week-long river cruise along the Rhine to test out their credentials.

There is a clear effort to welcome guests of all ages. A-Rosa Sena – recognisable due to its shiny white exterior and bright red lips – has 12 family rooms, that include an queen-size bed and bunk beds for the kids as well as his-and-hers sinks and a separate toilet to the bathroom.

We opted for interconnecting rooms, as our girls have enough skincare to fill a cabin.

The cabins were spacious, with enough sockets and USB ports to plug in the various devices that come with a family of four.

Catering for children can be tricky, especially if you have fussy eaters or are used to 24-hour buffets and all-night pizza on an ocean-going ship.

A family cabin aboard A-Rosa Sena is great for young children

A family cabin aboard A-Rosa Sena is great for young children (A-Rosa Cruises)

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River cruises tend to stick to set meal times, but A-Rosa Sena’s giant Nutella dispenser was enough to get our girls excited about breakfast. There was a lot of pork on offer at lunch and dinner in the A-Rosa Market buffet, which we don’t eat, but the chefs were kind enough to offer delicious alternatives to meet our dietary requirements.

The biggest challenge for any kind of family-focused cruise ship, though, is keeping the kids occupied.

Tweens, such as my girls, can be a particular challenge as they won’t be satisfied with being stuck in a ball pit anymore. A-Rosa Sena does have a fun kids club for younger children, with a small rock climbing wall and tiny slides. Our girls got involved in bracelet-making and mocktail classes.

Hammocks on the pool deck of A-Rosa Sena provided perfect selfie spots

Hammocks on the pool deck of A-Rosa Sena provided perfect selfie spots (Marc Shoffman)

It was the pool deck that first attracted our children as we climbed aboard. Two hammocks at the back of the ship provided perfect spots to relax and take selfies.

Unusually for a river cruise ship, the pool was big enough to do a few lengths and handstands. The low capacity and spacious deck meant there was no race for sun beds. It being much smaller than an ocean vessel, forgetting suncream or a book was no big deal – it didn’t take long to return to the room just two decks below.

You do need to be prepared for the pool deck to be closed on a river cruise. The locks and low bridges on the Rhine require furniture to be folded away, and the area is closed in bad weather.

The A-Rosa Sena pool is pretty spacious for a river cruise ship

The A-Rosa Sena pool is pretty spacious for a river cruise ship (Marc Shoffman)

It provides a good opportunity to explore indoors, however, and it was a novelty to be able to visit the onboard spa, free for all guests without any age restrictions.

Our girls revelled in the chance to relax in the sauna and apply their own face masks surrounded by magazines and a faux fireplace. We found it best to visit during the “textile” times where guests have to be clothed, avoiding a conversation about proper European sauna culture and having to teach them not to stare.

The destination is as important as the ship and our first stop in Rotterdam provided ample family activities. The vessel docked within walking distance of the famous cubed houses and we found a novel way to explore the city on a Splashtours amphibious bus. This provided close-up views of the former Holland American Line steamship SS Rotterdam – now a four-star hotel – and the Erasmus Bridge.

The Sena Bar provided the perfect place to relax indoors

The Sena Bar provided the perfect place to relax indoors (Marc Shoffman)

Around 43 nautical miles down the Rhine we stopped in Amsterdam where the Dutch capital is currently hosting the Barbie: The Dream Experience exhibition. It is dedicated to the iconic doll, with rooms full of nostalgia, reminding my wife and our girls of the toys they used to play with before they discovered smartphones. We felt like kids again as we posed in a life-sized Barbie car and made ourselves at home in the Barbie Dream House, complete with its own slide.

A stop in Nijmegen the next day gave us a chance for a bit more culture. An information centre close to the port provided a brief overview of the Dutch city’s role on the frontline during the Second World War, after it was mistakenly bombed by the US. We then embarked on something slightly different – an all-you-can eat pancake boat. The vessel sails around the River Waal, letting guests eat as many pancakes as they can, choosing from toppings such as cheese or chocolate. The record is 23 but sadly we only managed around nine between us.

The Shoffmans visited a life-size Barbie Dreamhouse in Amsterdam

The Shoffmans visited a life-size Barbie Dreamhouse in Amsterdam (Marc Shoffman)

A final day in Dusseldorf gave us a chance to walk off all those pancakes. It is worth purchasing a 48-hour Art:walk Museum Pass, which gave us access to six museums in the city including the iconic Kunstpalast. Dusseldorf describes itself as an 10-minute city as everything is close by, making it ideal for a family day out. We explored from the comfort of a hop-on, hop-off bus that toured the posh shops and the old town. We then took a lift up to the observation deck of the Rheinturm media tower for unrivalled views of the city.

Back on board each evening after a busy day of exploring, it was a relief that river cruises have more limited evening entertainment than their sea-faring cousins. A disco one day, and a karaoke session on another, was enough to entertain us before a nightcap and bed.

No rushing to get dressed for dinner or stressing about reserving theatre seats. A perfect family holiday in any language.

How to do it

Prices for a seven-night Rhine river cruise departing from Cologne between April and October aboard A-Rosa Sena start from £1,260 per person.