Review: Persona, Stockholm, Sweden

Our visit to Persona, located in the prestigious Östermalm area of Stockholm, began with a friendly wave from one of the staff as we were welcomed through the arched façade of an elegant building at Torstenssonsgatan 11. From the moment we stepped inside, it was clear that this wasn’t going to be just another meal, but a culinary journey perfectly aligned with the upscale surroundings. With several members of the team having honed their skills at Frantzén, one of Sweden’s most renowned and Michelin-starred restaurants, we knew we could be in for a very special experience. In this review, I’ll walk you through our evening so you can judge for yourself whether Persona truly lives up to its prime location in one of Stockholm’s most exclusive neighbourhoods.

The food

Let’s begin with the food. We had the seasonal tasting menu titled ‘Summer with Monika’. We weren’t given a menu so that each course came as a surpise to us, which was a nice way of doing things, although I did of course request a copy (not to spoil the surprises, but just for the purposes of this write-up).

Each course is described in just a handful of words punctuated by forward slashes, even if the creation of the dishes isn’t quite as simple as the menu suggests, so we began proceedings with “croustade / veal tartar / gribiche”, an interesting and very delicious take on a French classic, topped with white kombu.

Drawing its inspiration from South America, the “cajun tartelette / sweet corn / ranch dressing” was a flavourful Cajun tarte filled with a light and airy corn soufflé, drizzled with creamy ranch dressing. This comforting dish was not overly spicy but still offered bold flavors to delight the palate.

A showstopper when it comes to looks is the “truffle choux / monbazillac / tête de moine” – a delicate choux pastry filled with rich, earthy preserved winter truffle, elegantly topped with frilly curls of Swiss cheese to provide a stunning visual contrast. A drizzle of Monbazillac, a sweet wine from Périgord, adds a luscious sweetness to a dish that was as pleasing to the eye as it was to the tastebuds.

A French classic – crispy pommes dauphine – was given a creative twist in recognition of the much-celebrated Swedish midsummer with “pommes dauphine / truffle seaweed / matjessill” – designed to be eaten in one bite and served with an earthy truffle seaweed and matjessill (Swedish pickled herring). This unique pairing of French techniques and Swedish flavours was presented on top of an eye-catching, midsummer-inspired floral display.

After this course, we were invited down to the wine cellar. Instead of reading through the wine list, diners are invited to find out what suits them best through conversation and an exploration of their likes and dislikes.

The cellar is also where you can view the produce being used in the menu is showcased in a refrigerated display.

Whilst we were still in the cellar, we were presented with “foie gras / macaron / cloudberry” which captured the essence of French and Swedish culinary cultures by marrying the French delicacy of foie gras with the unique, seasonal and sweet-tart charm of Swedish cloudberries.

Back upstairs, “halibut / ajo blanco / sturgeon caviar / elderflower” featured a delicate halibut crudo served with a smooth and creamy ajo blanco (a traditional Spanish almond and garlic soup) with floral notes from elderflower vinegar and a luxurious touch of Ossietta sturgeon caviar from Poland. This dish proved to be one of the evening’s highlights and complemented the halibut beautifully.

The “squid / XO / lumpfish roe / pine” was an innovative noodle dish, featuring tender squid paired with a rich XO sauce and luxurious lumpfish roe. The addition of finger lime introduced a burst of citrus beautifully counterbalancing the earthiness of the pine.

At Persona, they ensure that their scallops are meticulously prepared and delivered straight from Hitra, Norway, where they are harvested by hand, which goes a long way to explaining why the “scallop / vanilla / caviar / tiger bread / tarama”, which features three of the chef’s favourite ingredients, was a resounding success. Norwegian scallops are considered some of the world’s best, thanks to the cold waters in which they grow, imparting a unique sweetness and richness which definitely came through in this dish.

It was at this point in the proceedings that we enjoyed schnapps and even a lively rendition of a Swedish song from the waiting staff, providing another nod to Swedish midsummer, a time when Swedes typically drink schnapps and beer while indulging in crayfish alongside västerbottenpaj (a västerbotten cheese pie).

The “västerbotten chawanmushi / crayfish / trout roe” is a delicate steamed egg custard infused with västerbotten cheese, accompanied by tender crayfish, sakkiwash trout roe, sea buckthorn oil and very pretty crown dill. This dish represents a French chef’s creative interpretation of Swedish traditions in a modern, Japanese way – wondefully creamy with the sweetness of the crayfish balancing beautifully with the subtle brininess of the trout roe.

 The “chūtoro / foie gras / kampot pepper / black radish” which followed had a meltingly tender texture that is characteristic of this specific cut of bluefin tuna, whilst the fermented black pepper sauce gave the dish an extra layer of depth and richness.

The “beef / chimichurri / shiso tempura” featured the most delicious and succulent wagyu beef, complemented by a vibrant and zesty chimichurri sauce, topped with a crispy shiso tempura. This beautiful fusion of Latin American and Japanese flavours worked extremely well and made this a stand-out dish for me.

The “tiramisu / truffle / px / gavotte” is Persona’s innovative take on the classic tiramisu, enhanced with a French touch. This modern interpretation features a crispy gavotte from Brittany, reminiscent of a fluffy crêpe, served with a cold-infused coffee ice cream made from sustainable Ethiopian coffee beans, as well as a mascarpone cream with a crunchy praline made from almonds and a cookie crumble. Finishing the dish are slivers of summer truffle and a PX syrup from 1947, which provides an aromatic, sweet and aged essence, replacing the traditional wine found in a classic tiramisu. The endresult is an exceptional blend of flavours and textures, which is really saying something since I’m not normally a big fan of tiramisu!

Before our final course, there was a brief interlude – a unique opportunity to engage our senses. We were presented with a red box filled with several small bottles containing a secret selection of spirits, encouraging us to explore aromas and flavours we might have otherwise overlooked. Identifying and distinguishing each subtle note proved to be far more difficult than you might imagine!

Our last course, “cardamom croissant / tarte soufflé chocolate / cannelé,” was an exquisite amalgamation of sweet treats. We were presented with three small bites; a cardamom croissant representing a delightful fusion of French and Swedish pastry traditions, and a unique twist on the classic croissant with the aromatic warmth of cardamom; a light and airy chocolate soufflé tart which was wonderfully rich and decadent; and a canelé, a beloved classic from Bordeaux.

The chef

Chef Louis Cespedes brings with him a background that includes stints at the prestigious Frantzén and Adam & Albin. He is Frenchman who has honed his skills in some of Sweden’s top kitchens and at Persona, he showcases a menu that highlights bold flavours with artistic presentation, reflecting a deep respect for ingredients and a culinary philosophy is centered around a commitment to creativity and excellence.

Sadly Louis was away at the time of our visit, but it was a pleasure to see his team at work in the open-plan kitchen that takes centre stage in the restaurant, creating memorable dining experiences that resonate with guests long after they leave.

The ambience

Persona’s interior has been designed by Erik Bratsberg, himself inspired by mid-century Italian design, who has created a welcoming yet refined dining environment. The use of calming green hues and natural wood not only provide a sense of relaxation, but also somehow evoke a connection with nature and Sweden’s changing seasons. It’s an intimate atmosphere with a lively buzz of chattering diners and an eclectic mix of contemporary music, that gives way to a soothing ambiance that’ feels welcoming and not too stuffy.

The cost

The tasting menu is priced at 2,100 SEK (approximately $200 at current exchange rates).
Wine pairings range from 1,600 SEK to the ‘Dreams’ pairing (wines found on the top of wish lists) for 7,500 SEK.

The final verdict

At Persona, we were treated to a very special dining experience. Here, the menu mixed rich Nordic traditions with modern culinary innovations, balancing excellent presentation with delicate flavours. As our experience drew to a close, we were asked to smile for the camera. We thought nothing of it at the time but, to our delight, we were presented with a Polaroid as we left— a wonderful keepsake to mark a truly memorable evening.

Disclosure: Our visit was sponsored by Persona and our trip was kindly supported by Visit Stockholm.

Paul Johnson

Paul Johnson is Editor of A Luxury Travel Blog and has worked in the travel industry for more than 30 years. He is Winner of the Innovations in Travel ‘Best Travel Influencer’ Award from WIRED magazine. In addition to other awards, the blog has also been voted “one of the world’s best travel blogs” and “best for luxury” by The Telegraph.