*This* Is What Derms Want You To Know About Clogged Pores

Clogged pores start with oil buildup on the skin. This oil that you naturally produce is called sebum. Regulated sebum production is actually beneficial, as it keeps the skin moisturized. However excess sebum is what leads to clogged pores, AKA sebum plugs. 

Because sebum is a sticky consistency, it easily clings to dirt and bacteria as well. When this clog is exposed to oxygen, it takes on a darker color—which is what makes blackheads different from non-exposed clogged pores. 

Clogged pores can sit flat on the skin or become raised, depending on how clogged they are. These clogs may turn into larger pimples such as pustules or papules—you can read more about those here. 

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Now that we’ve established the normality of pores, let’s go through a few best practices for managing clogged pores. It’s worth noting that one method missing from this list is squeezing your pores—because it’s not a best-practice. 

“You shouldn’t squeeze clogged pores as often this can lead to more inflammation, scarring and risk of infection,” board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, M.D., FAAD tells mbg. So before you get out your tools, remember that the chances of your clogged pores getting worse are higher than the chance of a quick squeeze doing any good. 

Instead, opt for one of the following methods: 

Beta-hydroxy acids, also known as BHAs, are going to be your best bet when it comes to treating clogged pores. “Because BHA’s are oil-soluble, they can penetrate deep into the pores and therefore are especially helpful at unclogging the pores and reducing excess oil,” Garshick explains. 

But they’re not just good for post-clog treatment. BHAs are classified as chemical exfoliants, meaning they help to slough off dead skin cells and, in turn, prevent clogged pores simultaneously. 

Summary

BHAs are the best treatment for unclogging pores as they penetrate deeply into the skin. They can be used as a preventative measure given their ability to exfoliate dead skin cells too, so look for BHAs like salicylic acid in your treatment products. 

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Alpha-hydroxy acids, or AHAs, are more of a preventative measure and help improve overall skin appearance. “AHAs, like glycolic or lactic acid, work to get rid of dead skin cells which prevents the pores from becoming clogged,” Garshick notes. 

Not sure how to remember which acid does what? “You can think of it this way: AHAs work above (A for AHA and Above) the surface of the skin, whereas BHAs work below it (B for BHA and Below),” medical esthetician and founder of JTAV Clinical Skincare Joie Tavernise explains.  

You don’t have to choose one or the other. In fact, using an exfoliating serum with a combination of the two acids is the most efficient way to keep the pores clear and maintain a smooth, dewy complexion at the same time. 

Caveat: However, be sure not to mix two separate serums together. Look for a pre-formulated combination serum instead. 

Summary

AHAs exfoliate the skin and prevent buildup. While BHAs are better for treating already clogged pores, a combination serum of both ingredients will be the best option for getting rid of clogged pores and maintaining a clear complexion. 

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“Clay and charcoal masks work by drawing out buildup such as debris and oil from pores,” board-certified dermatologist Ramya Garlapati, M.D., tells mbg. This is why clay masks are often viewed as a deep cleanse for the skin. 

However, these masks aren’t for everyone. “They can be very drying so it’s best to limit using them to a few times per week and they should also be used in caution in those with dry skin types,” Garlapti adds. 

If you’re going to use raw clay powder, be sure to mix it with a hydrating, non-comedogenic oil like jojoba, rosehip, or grapeseed oil to prevent drying out the skin. And if you have dry or sensitive skin to begin with, opt for other remedies altogether. 

Summary

Clay and charcoal masks draw out buildup and excess oil from the pores. You can use these masks once a week for maintenance, but be sure to combine the clay with a noncomedogenic oil if you’re using raw powder. For dry or sensitive skin types, it’s best to skip clay masks. 

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While retinol is famous for healthy skin aging, it’s incredibly beneficial for preventing clogged pores, too. “Retinol helps to improve skin cell turnover and clear away excess sebum, dead skin cells, dirt, and bacteria,” board-certified dermatologist Rebecca Marcus, M.D., FAAD explains. 

What’s more, “It also helps to normalize the sebaceous gland and regulate its secretions,” Marcus says. So if your skin is on the oilier side, using a retinol serum or cream can help to regulate your oil production overtime and prevent buildup. 

Even when it comes to pore size, retinol can help make the pores appear smaller (though larger pores aren’t anything to worry about). Garlapti explains: “[Retinol] decreases inflammation, and increases collagen production which helps to strengthen the walls of pores making them appear smaller over time.” 

Summary

Retinol increases cell turnover and regulates oil production on the skin, which helps to prevent clogged pores. This ingredient also has the power to increase collagen production and strengthen the skin, making the pores appear smaller. 

Now let’s talk about extractions. While you shouldn’t take an extraction tool to your own skin DIY-style, it can be done by a professional. While you do know your skin better than anyone else, skin experts have proper tools, sanitation practices, and training to perform extractions in a safe and effective manner, which is why it’s not as safe to do at home. 

So if you’re dealing with clogged pores more often than not, you may consider an acne facial. Beyond just extractions, acne facials also include topical treatments with ingredients like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, tea tree oil, etc. 

Acne facials may even include a blue light therapy session, which can help to kill bacteria, regulate sebum production, and sooth the skin. You can read all about these facials here if you want to learn more. 

Summary

Acne facials often include extractions and targeted topical treatments to kill bacteria, unclog pores, regulate oil production, and soothe the skin. If you’re prone to breakouts, acne facials may be a useful tool for acne maintenance. 

6.

Scrubs or physical exfoliators. 

Physical exfoliators like gentle scrubs can help to manually slough off dead skin cells, thus reducing the chance of getting a clogged pore. Plus, they offer instant positive results for your complexion. 

“Physical exfoliation offers instant gratification, as dead skin cells and dirt are swept away during the treatment,” board-certified dermatologist Jessie Cheung, M.D., founder of Cheung Aesthetics and Wellness previously told mbg. 

If you’re going to take this route, look for gentle exfoliants with fine, sugar-like granules rather than harsh salt scrubs or those with large beads made from nut shells or plastic. This will help prevent overexfoliation, irritation, and redness. 

Summary

Physical exfoliation helps to manually slough off dead skin cells, thus preventing clogged pores. Opt for a fine, sugar-like scrub over those with harsh granules made from plastic or nut shells. 

7.

Enzyme masks or cleansers. 

For those with sensitive skin that cannot tolerate any of the above, enzyme masks or cleansers may be a better option to clear the pores. 

“Enzymes can exfoliate and help to get rid of dead skin cells and in doing so, can help to improve the appearance of clogged pores and congestion of the skin,” Garshick explains. 

What’s more, “They can also act as keratolytic, breaking down keratin and helping clear away dead skin cells from the surface of the skin,” Marcus explains. 

Summary

Enzymes help exfoliate the skin and break down keratin, both of which help to clear dead skin cells from the skin. The less dead skin there is on the skin, the less likely you are to experience clogged pores. 

Hydrocolloid patches create a protective seal over the skin, while absorbing excess fluid like sebum. “Hydrocolloid patches, particularly those that contain salicylic acid, may be helpful to address clogged pores,” Garshick notes. 

While these patches may be beneficial to temporarily improve the appearance of the pores, they don’t necessarily prevent new breakouts from forming, Garshick adds. 

Hydrocolloid patches are certainly a better choice than typical blackstrips as the latter can damage your skin barrier—more on that to come.

Summary

Hydrocolloid patches help to pull excess fluid out of the skin such as sebum and pus. These can be a temporary fix to improve the appearance of clogged pores, but they won’t do much for preventing new ones. Hydrocolloid patches are a safer option than sticky blackhead strips, as the latter can damage your skin barrier. 

Say you’ve tried all of the above and still struggle with clogged pores—it might be time to see an expert. “If you are trying over-the-counter products without improvement, experiencing dryness or sensitivity to products and having trouble finding the right products, or if any of your breakouts are leading to scarring, it can be helpful to see a dermatologist,” Garshick explains. 

Dermatologists and licensed estheticians can offer extractions, chemical peels, and prescription-grade products, all of which can be helpful for chronically clogged pores. Plus, these experts can help you put together an A+ routine for keeping your skin clear after in-office treatments. 

Traditional, sticky blackstrips are not the same as hydrocolloid patches and may actually make the problem worst. “Hydrocolloid patches tend to be gentler than blackhead strips, whose adhesive can be damaging and disruptive to the skin barrier,” Marcus explains. 

When the skin barrier is compromised, your skin is more susceptible to bacteria and your oil production will be thrown off. Stick with the options above and skip the abrasive blackhead strips. Or, make your own pore strips at home—here’s how. 

Best products to get rid of clogged pores