This S’porean Michelin-starred restaurant opened a new brand that skips the fine dining fuss

After 12 years of serving up Michelin-starred fine dining at Buona Terra, Chef Denis Lucchi has taken on a new challenge: bringing the heartiness of Italian comfort food to Singapore with Locanda. 

Recently opened in late July, Locanda is a dining spot on Rowell Road that aims to give customers “a taste of la dolce vita” (the good life in Italian). 

Its name (Locanda) is taken from the Italian word for “inn”, which is exactly the homely vibe and charm that you can expect here. The setting is more laid-back in comparison to Buona Terra, almost akin to a trattoria in Italy with its brick-like walls.

This is an intentional decision as the whole concept of Locanda is to be an easygoing Italian restaurant. 

Speaking candidly, Chef Denis shared that they (himself and the Buona Terra group) always knew the demand for casual Italian comfort food was high in Singapore. 

“Italian food is always associated with comfort with bigger sharing portions, never really refined or fine dining,” the native from the region of Lombardia explained.

“Locanda is meant to be more of a family style and a sharing concept compared to the fine dining experience at Buona Terra. People can enjoy casual food at Locanda with a focus on premium ingredients at a lower price point, fun and lively vibe, and friendly service.”

And that’s exactly what Locanda is all about—a relaxed, family-style dining experience that’s perfect for sharing.

From fine dining to family-style meals

With the same emphasis on quality and tradition that define Buona Terra, Locanda was designed to be more approachable. It’s a space where guests can feel welcomed to gather with loved ones on a random night and share hearty Italian plates.

“We welcome bigger groups of friends and family at Locanda, which isn’t always common at Buona Terra unless they opt for the private dining room,” Chef Denis said. 

Where Buona Terra is all about elaborate tasting menus and discreet service, Locanda takes a more down-to-earth approach.

The new restaurant focuses on comfort food that is “deeply rooted in Italian tradition”, as Chef Denis described. 

He developed the recipes himself and took inspiration from the many regions in Italy. Made using premium ingredients, these honest-to-goodness dishes are meant to showcase the versatility of Italian cuisine. 

Chef Denis worked closely with his team to craft the menu. This includes Chef William Bai and Chef Anthony Cheng who had previously worked with him at Buona Terra for 10 years. These chefs are the main characters heading Locanda on a day-to-day basis. 

While there are ala carte items, Locanda’s more unique offering is its sharing menu. The Selezione (S$78++ per pax, minimum two pax) and Riserva (S$108++ per pax, minimum six pax) are perfect for groups looking to sample a bit of everything. 

Highlights include Malloreddus with Red Wine Octopus Ragu and the Pappardelle Ragu Genovese with Mixed Mushrooms.

The best part of it is that the menu rotates daily, so you’ll always have something new to try. 

Keeping it real with authentic flavours

Locanda’s approach to food is simple: “We have stuck to authentic Italian flavours as much as possible,” Chef Denis clarified.

He’s rather confident that Singaporean diners will appreciate the true taste of Italy without needing to adjust the dishes too much for local palates. Hence, you won’t find any fusion dishes like salted egg yolk pasta on its menu.

Do note that Locanda offers only dinner services on weekdays (from 6PM to midnight), with brunch offered on weekends. This is because the goal for Locanda is to be a go-to spot for quality Italian fare and wines, especially catering to those looking for a late dinner or supper.

Weekday lunch services might be added eventually but that’s still not pinned down yet.

So far, the reception has been overwhelmingly positive, much to Chef Denis and the Buona Terra group’s delight. 

Though they knew that the concept would be generally well received, the team was slightly sceptical at first due to the restaurant’s location being away from the city. 

You could even argue that the choice of a less bustling area in Singapore makes the space even more appealing as it plays into the trattoria experience. 

Those looking to escape the hecticness of city life would appreciate the quaint restaurant. Located within the Little India district, it’s also accessible by train with the nearest stations being stops like Jalan Besar MRT and Farrer Park.

“Whatever you choose to focus on, be it innovation or tradition, I think the most important thing is to stick with a strong identity and stay true to it. [This is because] diners will visit the restaurant with expectations and we need to meet or even exceed them,” Chef Denis expressed. 

“Stick to your concept’s identity and follow closely to what you set out to do even if it will be difficult at the beginning. It’s always important to listen to feedback and analyse them. Always be present and work hard.”

Regardless of what kind of cuisine you’re serving, the idea is to double down on your concept at every turn. This gives your restaurant a strong branding and builds trust amongst customers to know that you can deliver on your promise. 

Having spent 12 years at Buona Terra and resided here for 17 years, Chef Denis sums up Singapore’s food scene in two words: constantly changing.

Whether that’s diners’ preferences or the culinary scene as a whole, Singapore’s F&B industry remains dynamic. 

At the moment, he finds that the trend is going towards more casual concepts where people can wine and dine, and feel relaxed. It’s a far cry from fine dining places where customers need to spend more hours with more elaborate meals.

Considering this, it’s not hard to see why Chef Denis and the Buona Terra group decided to open Locanda now.

Looking ahead, his hope is simply to have Locanda known for its nice food, especially pasta, and its nice vibe. “The biggest ambition is to have a full house everyday with a weekly waiting list. This would be the best return for our hard work.” 

Featured Image Credit: Locanda