Is This Natural Ingredient Actually A Retinol Alternative? We Investigate
Is there any truth to this alleged “retinol dupe"?
KickT
mbg Assistant Beauty Editor
mbg Assistant Beauty Editor
Hannah Frye is the Assistant Beauty Editor at mindbodygreen. She has a B.S. in journalism and a minor in women’s, gender, and queer studies from California Polytechnic State University, San Luis Obispo. Hannah has written across lifestyle sections including health, wellness, sustainability, personal development, and more.
Image by Aleksandra Jankovic / Stocksy March 27, 2023 Retinol is undeniably one of the most talked-about skin care ingredients out there. It’s a powerful active that can assist in a host of skin concerns from wrinkles to acne and more. Nevertheless, plenty of people can’t tolerate it whatsoever. It’s no wonder retinol alternatives are popping up more and more, but is there any truth to these alleged “dupes”? To follow, we investigate one of the most popular: Bakuchiol.
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What is bakuchiol?
“Bakuchiol is a 100% natural active ingredient obtained from the babchi seeds (psoralea corylifolia plant),” clean cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Consulting Krupa Koestline tells mbg. The plant’s blooms are purple, which is why many of the bakuchiol products today have a slight lavender hue.
She adds, “The plant where bakuchiol comes from, the Psoralea Corylifolia, is endemic to certain Asian countries such as India Himalayan regions of Pakistan and China.” This wild species has been used in Ayurvedic medicine for centuries, Koestline notes, so it’s certainly not new—however, it has gained popularity in the commercial skin care market as of late.
Meet the cosmetic chemist:
Krupa Koestline is a clean cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Consulting. Merging her background in biology, biochemistry, and biotechnology with her lifelong practice of Ayurveda, Krupa has created award-winning formulations with breakthrough technology for a wide variety of brands. In 2021 Krupa was appointed to Credo’s Clean Beauty Council. She is a regular mindbodygreen contributor and one of the foremost thought leaders in clean beauty product development.
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Benefits of bakuchiol.
Unlike retinol, bakuchiol hasn’t been extensively researched for topical skin benefits. However, dermatologists and Koestline note a host of promising potential benefits from early research. To follow, a bit more about what you can expect when you add this botanical to your routine.
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For a more in-depth explanation, read on.
1.
Increases cell turnover.
“Similar to retinol, bakuchiol stimulates cell turnover,” Koestline says. Translation: You shed dead and damaged skin cells at a quicker rate, nipping a dull complexion in the bud. This isn’t quite the same mechanism as exfoliation, but can be seen as a way to revive lackluster complexions.
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2.
Improves sun-damaged skin.
Now this is where bakuchiol really shines. Remember when we said it’s been called a “retinol alternative?” Well, that’s because a 2019 randomized, double-blind study put bakuchiol up against retinol to measure it’s effectiveness.
The results: “UC Davis dermatologists concluded that bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoaging1 and is better tolerated than retinol,” Koestline notes. Read: Less peeling, dryness, and scaling.
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4.
Stimulate collagen production.
In this 2014 study, bakuchiol was shown to stimulate collagen production (another retinol-like benefit). More specifically, this botanical enhances types I, III, and IV collagen. This is most significant with type III collagen, as that decreases with age and greatly contributes to overall skin elasticity.
5.
Reduce fine lines & wrinkles.
What’s more, “Bakuchiol also has antibacterial properties and helps fight acne,” Libby notes. Of course this helps manage all forms of breakouts, but bakuchiol won’t necessarily clear acne brought on by genetics, hormone imbalance, diet, and the like. Still, it’s a great addition to an acne-healing routine regardless.
It's also important to note that stronger forms of retinol like retinaldehyde and prescription-grade retinoids are often used to treat acne. While bakuchiol may help ease breakouts, it hasn't been directly compared to stronger retinoids for treating acne yet.
Cautions.
The best part about bakuchiol: It’s a relatively low-risk ingredient to test out. “It has not been known to cause skin irritation or increase sensitivity, and can be paired with many skincare ingredients,” Libby says.
However, with all botanical ingredients, you should patch best your bakichiol product and wait 24 hours before going in for a full application.
Is it a retinol alternative?
“Since bakuchiol offers many benefits similar to that of using a retinol, it has been referred to as a ‘retinol alternative’,” Libby notes. This is largely due to the study above that directly compared retinol to bakuchiol, favoring the latter for similar benefits without the negative side effects1.
“However, its chemical structure is different from that of a retinol or retinoid so they are technically different molecular compounds and should be considered separately,” she adds.
So while anyone with sensitivity to retinol should certainly test out bakichiol instead, it’s not going to impact the skin in the exact same way. Like all ingredients, some skin types may prefer retinol, and others bakuchol.
What’s more, you can certainly use the two in the same routine. Below, how to add this purple botanical to your reigimine.
How to use it.
Retinol comes with a strict set of usage guidelines: Only use it at night, skip a day in between if you’re sensitive, don’t mix with chemical exfoliants, and so on. Luckily, bakuchiol is much more flexible. Here’s a few usage tips:
Long story short: Use bakuchiol as you see fit in your skin care routine. As with any ingredient, be sure to patch test it first for any allergic reactions. Add it to your morning or evening routine and use it once or twice a day—the choice is yours.
Sustainability concerns.
With natural ingredients comes the question: Where are we getting this extract? And more, is it okay that we’re harvesting this part of nature for use beauty products? Here’s what Koestline says:
“Up until 2017, there was no commercially produced Babchi plant (where bakuchiol comes from). Because babchi is already an endangered species and a low germinating plant, there were concerns about its possible extinction.”
However, an increase in recent demand leads Koestline to believe that this ingredient can be sustainability produced at this moment. The bottom line: It may not be fully clear right now how sustainable using bakuchiol in skin care is, but the hopes are high for commercially produced bakuchiol now and in the future.
Bakuchiol products
Herbivore
Bakuchiol Retinol Alternative Smoothing Serum
$54
If you want a no-fuss bakuchiol serum, this is it. The active is mixed with extracts from tremella mushroom, blueberries, turmeric, and aloe vera for a hydrating, antioxidant-rich formula.
Supergoop
Daily Dose Bioretinol + Mineral SPF 40 with Bakuchiol
$46
For those who want to streamline their morning routine, this bakuchiol-infused SPF is a perfect fit. A mineral sunscreen formula provides lasting protection for the skin while bakuchiol helps clean up sun damage from the past—ultimately creating a more even-toned, healthy canvas and preventing future damage.
Alpyn Beauty
PlantGenius Melt Moisturizer
$60
This rich moisturizer is ideal for anyone with dry, sensitive, or aging skin. Bakuchiol is joined by hyaluronic acid, squalane, and ceramides to nourish the skin barrier while speeding up cell turnover.
Spoiled Child
G25 Anti-Aging Retin + Night Rewind Serum
$69
Libby's pick: "SpoiledChild's G25+Anti-Aging Retin+ Night Rewind Serum pairs the powers of bakuchiol and retinol with hydrating ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and squalane, to boost skin's collagen and elastin production, minimize dark spots and acne, and improve skin's texture and overall appearance," she says.
FAQ
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
A 2019 randomized, double-blind study put bakuchiol up against retinol to measure it’s effectiveness. The results: “UC Davis dermatologists concluded that bakuchiol is comparable to retinol in its ability to improve photoaging and is better tolerated than retinol,” Koestline notes.
What are the side effects of bakuchiol?
The best part about bakuchiol: It’s a relatively low-risk ingredient to test out. “It has not been known to cause skin irritation or increase sensitivity, and can be paired with many skincare ingredients,” Libby says. However, with all botanical ingredients, you should patch best your bakuchiol product and wait 24 hours before going in for a full application.
What should I not mix with bakuchiol?
“Bakuchiol can be used with a retinol or a chemical exfoliant,” Libby notes. What’s more, mixing it with retinol may even be beneficial: “ It also may be synergistic with retinol use, as it helps stabilize retinol which is known to break down in the presence of light,” she adds.
The takeaway.
If you’re sensitive to retinol (check our faves if you aren't), meet the powerful alternative, bakuchiol. This purple botanical extract has been compared to retinol in clinical studies, demonstrating similar benefits without the sensitivity. Feel free to use it in the morning or evening and mix it with other actives. Want to learn more about retinol and why it works? Check out this guide.
