From 12 South to Germantown – these are the Nashville neighbourhoods you need to know about

The magic doesn't stop at the honky-tonk doors in Music City – these are the six most alluring neighbourhoods beyond Broadway, says George Clode

From 12 South to Germantown – these are the Nashville neighbourhoods you need to know about

It’s taken four trips to the electric city of Nashville for me to realise it’s not really a city at all; more a collection of diverse neighbourhoods stitched together by the common threads of music, food and artistic expression.

My first taste of Nashville was a fleeting stop on a honeymoon road trip; a classic introduction that left me completely infatuated. I’ve since returned for three more week-long stints, watching the city change its clothes through every season from the sticky highs of mid-summer to a surreal January snowstorm that blanketed the neon lights in white.

I’ve seen gigs at the Opry, enjoyed “Recession Specials” at Robert’s Western World, and spent New Year’s Eve in Bicentennial Park. And it’s only now those must-sees have all been ticked off that I’ve managed to embrace the true joy of a Nashville visit: neighbourhood-hopping.

Beyond Broadway’s bachelorette parties you’ll find a city the locals understandably like to keep for themselves. The emerging industrial-chic of Wedgewood Houston, the indie soul of East Nashville – the distinct personalities of these different spots are as unique and alluring as the residents who inhabit them.

If you’re ready to experience that true joy for yourself, read on for my neighbourhood-hopping guide to the cultural corners of Music City.

12 South

Best for: People-watching over cocktails or lattes and investing in rugged Americana fashion

12 South is the influencers’ favourite, but there’s more to the neighbourhood than murals and matcha

12 South is the influencers’ favourite, but there’s more to the neighbourhood than murals and matcha (Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp)

Read more: Why America’s Music City is the perfect break

If Nashville were forced to choose one neighbourhood to represent itself on Instagram, it would probably pick 12 South; the narrow, pedestrian-friendly commercial corridor located roughly three miles south of Downtown. Yes, it’s photogenic to the point of self-parody but behind the curated storefronts and attractive people holding matcha lattes lies genuine charm. The area manages to balance trendiness with an easy, walkable warmth that many rapidly cool neighbourhoods lose entirely.

Shops such as Imogene + Willie and Buck Mason embody Nashville’s particular fashion identity: rugged but expensive, casual but well-tailored. Everyone looks like they could repair a motorcycle while discussing natural wine pairings.

Coffee culture thrives here too. Hearts is all minimalist Aussie vibes and immaculate espresso, while nearby cafes overflow with freelancers tapping away on laptops beneath exposed brickwork.

The area is polished, certainly. But unlike some over-designed districts, 12 South still feels lived-in.

Where to stay

The Gilmore

Situated right in the heart of 12 South, this stylish boutique retreat puts you steps away from the neighbourhood’s best coffee bars, murals, and denim fitting rooms. With sleek residential-style apartments, private balconies and a quiet leafy courtyard, it feels less like a standard hotel stay and more like having your own curated local pad.

Price: Rates start from £190

Wedgewood-Houston

Best for: European-style brasserie dining, industrial art crawls, and hip, warehouse-framed coffee dates

Don’t skip a lavish dinner at WeHo’s Pastis, one of a number of new exciting restaurants to have opened recently in the area

Don’t skip a lavish dinner at WeHo’s Pastis, one of a number of new exciting restaurants to have opened recently in the area (Courtesy of STARR Restaurants)

“WeHo” is Nashville’s (and my) current obsession. A booming, creative warehouse district situated just a few minutes south of Downtown, it’s an aesthetic fever dream. Former industrial spaces now house galleries, coffee shops and restaurants. Pastis brings a slice of classy Parisian brasserie energy to Tennessee, and I went full bon vivant with oysters, snails in garlic butter, a delicious cassoulet, and a rare steak.

Nearby, Ingrassia & Sons is a terrific Italian deli owned by a former music industry professional turned sandwich king. They serve sensational Italian doorstops stuffed with everything from shredded braised pork shoulder to roasted turkey with stracciatella cheese.

New openings on the horizon here include rooftop bars, high-end organic markets, and – perhaps most excitingly – a new 4,400-capacity live music venue The Truth, which opens this autumn.

Where to stay

Soho House Nashville

Housed in a lovingly restored 1900s sock factory, this Michelin Key-awarded creative hub captures WeHo’s industrial-artistic identity perfectly. If you’re not a member you can pay £100 for a year-long “Friends of Soho House” membership, which allows you to book a stay. Expect Bauhaus-inspired geometric decor, a vibrant courtyard pool and three performance stages.

Price: Rates start from £245

Hillsboro + Midtown

Best for: High-energy college town nightlife and legendary, carb-loaded breakfasts

Prepare to have afternoon plans altered after a massive stack of pancakes at Taylor Swift’s favourite breakfast spot

Prepare to have afternoon plans altered after a massive stack of pancakes at Taylor Swift’s favourite breakfast spot (Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp)

Hillsboro and Midtown, immediately west of the city centre, feel like Nashville’s take on the university years stretched into adulthood. There’s a permanent buzz of students, academics, musicians and people carrying tote bags featuring abstract line art in the area, which wraps around the historic Vanderbilt University campus.

Begin your day at Taylor Swift’s favourite breakfast spot, Pancake Pantry, a beloved institution where queues form with the grim determination of Wimbledon campers. The pancakes arrive thick, glorious, topped with cinnamon cream and large enough to alter your afternoon plans entirely.

Midtown comes alive after dark. Live music leaks out from bars, queues form outside late-night taco spots and a bustling crew of post-recording session muso types keep things lively. Martin’s BBQ anchors the neighbourhood; the smell of smoked meats drifting through the air with the music.

Food comes quickly with a variety of delicious sauces, including the wickedly spicy Devil’s Nectar. I went for the brisket – but honestly, you can’t go wrong. This place feels like a local’s haunt run with the efficiency of a fast food chain. A beer at the bar with a tray of meat is what Saturday nights in this neighbourhood were made for.

Where to stay

Hutton Hotel

Tucked away in lively Midtown, the boutique Hutton Hotel serves as the ultimate launching pad for neighborhood-hopping. It successfully pairs a creative, artsy charm with the comfortable, curated feel of a touring musician’s home base. Don't skip the hotel's vibrant restaurant, Evelyn's, which dishes up a fantastic modern twist on classic Southern comfort foods in a retro, art-filled oasis.

Price: Rates start from £225

Read more: The best alternatives to driving Route 66

Downtown + The Gulch

Best for: A wild collision of gritty, historic country music bars and sleek, ultra-modern vinyl and sushi lounges

The Listening Room in the Gulch will reaffirm your faith in Nashville’s songwriting chops

The Listening Room in the Gulch will reaffirm your faith in Nashville’s songwriting chops (Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp)

Downtown, in the central bullseye of Nashville, is absolutely worth a visit, and The Gulch next door is where the city’s glossy modern ambitions really flex. Together, they form a strange but entertaining collision between old-school country grit and progressive, curated cool.

You can find genuine honky-tonk magic at Robert’s Western World, where musicians play with serious levels of talent. Time your trip with a Chris Casello gig and you’ll soon join me in naming this gloriously unpretentious place one of your absolute favourite venues in the world.

A few blocks away, The Gulch rises up in all its polished-industrial glory. Alongside the gloss you’ll also find a killer food scene: Peg Leg Porker rivals Martin’s for BBQ gold medal, while Tennessee Brew Works keeps things grounded with local, surprisingly strong beer, a truly excellent burger and regular live gigs.

Over the road from Tennessee Brew Works is Jack White’s Third Man Records. Do yourself a favour and book a guided tour of the whole place – what appears to be a rather small shop, opens up into a Willy Wonka’s factory of eccentric memorabilia, vinyl pressing, merch shipping and live shows held in The Blue Room. I could write a whole homage to this remarkable musical wonderland.

The Listening Room is another top venue that reaffirms your faith in Nashville’s songwriting chops. Intimate in feel, the venue attracts a high calibre of talent who will casually mention the Billboard chart-topping banger they wrote for some global megastar.

A top tip? Don’t miss Japanese bar and listening lounge 888 in Downtown for some incredible sushi and eclectic tunes spun on vinyl. I popped in for half an hour and ended up staying three hours.

Where to stay

1 Hotel Nashville

Positioned right in Downtown just blocks from The Gulch and Broadway, this eco-luxury sanctuary blends sustainability with high-end comfort. Featuring ivy-draped exterior walls, reclaimed wood interiors and moss accents, it offers a peaceful retreat complete with a rooftop bar and organic farm-to-table dining amid the city's neon energy.

Price: Rates start from £275

Germantown

Best for: Strolls to take in historic architecture, paired with slow-food culinary excellence and low-lit wine bars

Germantown is all stylish red brick buildings and peaceful, tree-lined streets

Germantown is all stylish red brick buildings and peaceful, tree-lined streets (Courtesy of Nashville Convention & Visitors Corp)

Germantown feels like the grown-up in the room. On the banks of the Cumberland River, just north of the state capitol building and Downtown, the area’s historic brick homes, tree-lined streets and beautifully restored buildings give it an old-money elegance.

But don’t mistake sophisticated for sleepy. This neighbourhood houses some of the city’s best food and drink spots. Sauced is a low-key, low-lit place on a residential street with an excellent wine and vinyl selection; Rolf and Daughters is a neighbourhood favourite with an industrial Shoreditch feel; and Henrietta Red is a chic, seafood-centric restaurant with casual counter seating overlooking the kitchen.

Walking along the streets of Germantown had me once again reaching for Rightmove and devising elaborate relocation plans.

Where to stay

The Germantown Inn

Tucked into a restored 1860s Federal-style brick home, this six-room boutique hotel embodies Germantown’s refined, historic elegance. Each custom room pays homage to a historic figure, complemented by a serene brick courtyard, complimentary evening wine hours, and immediate proximity to the neighbourhood’s dining scene.

Price: Rates start from £205

East Nashville

Best for: Diving into chaotic vintage record shops, indie music hubs, and late-night bohemian neighbourhood spots

Grimey’s is one of America’s great independent vinyl shops

Grimey’s is one of America’s great independent vinyl shops (George Clode)

Sprawled directly across the Cumberland River, stretching out across the water east from Downtown, East Nashville is where everybody ends up eventually. Artists, musicians, chefs, people who own vintage cameras but don’t know how to use them. They all migrate east.

The vibe is indie without too much performative reading. Elegy Coffee fuels the neighbourhood with exceptional cups by day, while at night, The Fox Bar and Cocktail Club above the cafe use Elegy coffee in their award-winning espresso martinis. Nearby record store Grimey’s remains one of America’s great independent vinyl shops: chaotic, soulful and deeply protective of analogue music.

There’s an appealing looseness to East Nashville. Things don’t feel over-managed. Restaurants like Junior manage to be “special occasion” places without being stuffy. That said, my highlights from their menu do sound like a Master Chef voiceover: celeriac and black truffle barbajuan, blue fin tuna tartlet with bottarga, venison anolini in brodo, and chou farci, Carolina gold rice and smoked eel with albufera sauce.

Urban Cowboy, a unique hotel with a great bar and pizza restaurant, is a rustic Southern aesthetic design masterclass – clawfoot bathtubs, whiskey and carefully distressed wood. Someone in the courtyard will be playing lap steel, and someone at the bar will be throwing dice while they pour your chilled red.

And it was as I drank that final chilled red in yet another independently fascinating area of the city that I realised: I’ve officially reached proud dad status with Nashville. Like a parent refusing to choose a favourite child, I love each of these unique neighbourhoods equally, completely, and for entirely different reasons. And I’m willing to bet all the pancakes in the Pancake Pantry you will too.

Where to stay

The Dive Motel & Swim Club

Pure retro perfection, this converted 1970s motel captures East Nashville’s unvarnished, bohemian soul. Each of its 23 custom rooms comes equipped with a disco ball and "Party Switch," while the on-site Swim Club, wood-panelled Dive Bar, and laid-back courtyard pool make it one of the city's most vibrant local hangouts.

Price: Rates start from £145

George was hosted by Visit Music City.

Read more: 10 of Europe’s best road trips, from the North Coast 500 to the Iceland Ring Road

How to get there

British Airways flies direct from London Heathrow to Nashville (BNA). Flight time is around nine hours.