These Cold Meat Recipes Are Just as Good as Hot (or Even Better)
“It’s too hot to eat” is a sentiment Caribbean folk know too well, especially in August, though admittedly it’s often said but rarely abided by. Yet with continual heat waves sweeping across the US, we must be mindful of...
Flank steak, cold? Gooood.Photo: CTHB (Shutterstock)
“It’s too hot to eat” is a sentiment Caribbean folk know too well, especially in August, though admittedly it’s often said but rarely abided by. Yet with continual heat waves sweeping across the US, we must be mindful of our ecological footprints and utilize various strategies for staying cool besides putting the AC on full blast. Cue: cold meals (and I don’t mean cereal).
Some people refuse to eat cold food, salads included, but hear me out: There are more enticing, more satisfying meals that we can enjoy cold, especially in summer months. Here are some of my go-to dishes, all of which delighted even the most demanding clients when I was a chef catering outdoor summer events.
Chimichurri Flank Steak Salad
In the early aughts, flank steaks—bavette, if you’re fancy—were all the rage. You were hard-pressed to find a TV chef who wasn’t extolling its virtues, one of which used to be its affordability. Increased popularity has driven flank steak prices up, but that doesn’t negate the fact that this cut does well with marinades, is easy to cook, and tastes great cold. The chimichurri sauce, which is by no means traditional, does double duty as marinade and dressing, offering a taste of summer with every bite.
Ingredients:
For the chimichurri sauce:
1¼ cups olive oil1½ cups Italian parsley, chopped½ cup cilantro, chopped¼ cup mint, chopped¼ cup red onion, diced2 tablespoons garlic, chopped2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice1 teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon cracked black pepper1 serrano chili pepper, deseeded and choppedZest of one lemonFor the steak:
1 2-2½-pound flank steak, trimmed (skin and membrane removed)For the salad:
1 1-pound box of organic spring mix (or whatever leafy greens you prefer)1 pint of cherry or teardrop tomatoes, cut in half1 cup gorgonzola (or feta), crumbledPlace the chimichurri sauce ingredients in a food processor or bullet thingamajig and pulse until you have a coarse mixture. Do not puree!
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Use half of the mixture to smother the flank steak and place it in the refrigerator for at least two hours, preferably overnight. On a hot grill or in an oven set on broil, cook the steak for approximately four minutes per side. Bring to room temp and pop it in the fridge until you’re ready to serve.
To assemble: toss the spring mix and tomatoes in half of the remaining chimichurri. Thinly slice the cold steak and put on top of the greens and tomatoes, drizzle on the remaining dressing, and top with cheese.
Salmon with Asparagus and Avocado Crema
There’s something I find comforting about a cold piece of salmon, which resulted in my somewhat ill-advised sashimi phase. (The amount of money I spent on sushi that summer could have kept a former Soviet country up and running, but I digress.) Cold grilled salmon is exceptionally versatile. You can use it in sandwiches, flake it and tossed with pasta, or serve it atop a pile of leafy greens. This dish sees grilled fillets accompanied by lemony sautéed asparagus and topped with herbaceous avocado crema.
Ingredients:
For the salmon:
2 4-ounce salmon fillets, skin removed2 cloves garlic, chopped2 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons lemon juice1 teaspoon dried oregano1 teaspoon cayenne pepper½ teaspoon sea saltFor the asparagus:
2 bundles of asparagus, approximately 16-18 spears¼ cup Italian parsley, chopped2 tablespoons butter, saltedZest of one lemonFor the avocado crema:
1 Hass avocado¼ cup plain Greek yogurt2 tablespoons mayonnaise1 tablespoon fresh dill, chopped1 teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon cracked black pepperFor the salmon: combine the garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, herbs, and spices and smother the salmon with it. Let it marinate for an hour before placing the fillets on a nonstick baking tray in an oven heated to 450℉ for 12 minutes to reach medium doneness—the filets should have a deep pink, cool, and firm center surrounded by light pink flaky flesh. Bring to room temperature before refrigerating until ready to serve.
For the asparagus: Sauté the asparagus and lemon zest in the butter until the spears are tender-crisp (around four minutes). Sprinkle with parsley, remove from pan and refrigerate.
For the crema: place all the ingredients in a food processor and puree until smooth.
When you’re ready to serve, equally divide the asparagus onto (preferably chilled) plates and place a piece of salmon on top or each portion. Drizzle on the avocado crema.
Honey-Cilantro Chicken Thighs
This is ideal picnic food. Eat on its own, or serve with sliced Persian cucumbers tossed in a couple of tablespoons of furikake seasoning.
Ingredients:
4 bone-in skinless chicken thighs4 cloves garlic, chopped¼ cup orange juice¼ cup honey¼ cup cilantro, chopped¼ cup green onions, chopped2 tablespoons dark soy sauce1 tablespoon sesame oil1 tablespoon red chili flakesPlace all the ingredients in a bowl and toss. Place in the refrigerator for a couple of hours to marinate.
Preheat an oven to 375℉. Place chicken thighs on a foil-lined baking tray and bake for 35 minutes, brushing on more of the marinade every five minutes until the thickest part of the chicken thigh reaches an internal temperature of 165°F.
Shrimp with Noodles
I don’t know about you, but I love eating cold Chinese takeout leftovers. This recipe is a basic version of a lo mein dish that I order whenever I have a takeout craving.
Ingredients:
1 pound dried Chinese egg noodles2 tablespoons vegetable oil2 tablespoons sesame oil½-inch piece of ginger, finely chopped2 cloves garlic, chopped2 sprigs green onion, chopped2 cups of (whole) snow peas1 cup shitake mushrooms, de-stemmed and sliced1 cup cremini mushrooms, sliced1 pound of shrimp, de-shelled and deveined (frozen is fine)1 tablespoon red chili flakes (optional)¼ cup hoisin sauce2 tablespoons soy sauce
Boil noodles according to package instructions. When cooked, drain and toss with vegetable oil to prevent clumping.
In a large skillet, heat sesame oil until smoking. Working quickly, sauté ginger, garlic, green onion, peas, and mushrooms for a minute. Add shrimp (thawed if using frozen) and red chili flakes. Sauté for another minute, then add hoisin and soy sauces. Stir, remove from heat, pour over noodles, and toss. Refrigerate until ready to serve.
Pork Chops with Peach Chutney and Minted Orzo
Buckle up, buckaroos. This recipe has many steps, but the overall result is worth it. I served this at the rehearsal wedding luncheon, and the beef Wellington I painstakingly made alongside it sat there begging to be chosen. This is the Jennifer Hudson of dishes—in an ensemble, it sings the loudest—and is absolutely a star. If you serve this at a dinner party, you’ll be awash with praise. If you take this to a potluck, be prepared to receive jealous ire from the other cooks.
Ingredients:
For the peach chutney:
¼ cup dark brown sugar¼ cup apple cider vinegar2 very ripe medium-sized peaches, peeled and chopped into ½-inch cubes2 tablespoons honey1 shallot, chopped1 Thai chili, chopped1 serrano chili, deseeded and chopped1 clove garlic, chopped½ teaspoon allspice powder½ teaspoon smoked paprika½-inch piece of ginger, gratedFor the orzo:
For the pork:
2 6-ounce bone-in pork chops3 tablespoons olive oil, divided into 1- and 2-tablespoon portions1 teaspoon madras curry powder1 teaspoon sea salt1 teaspoon cracked black pepper½ teaspoon ginger powderFor the chutney: score the bottom of the peaches (make an X) and dunk in hot water for a minute or two to loosen the skin. Once cool (you may submerge in an ice bath to speed up the process), peel, remove the piths, and chop. Place all chutney ingredients in a saucepan and cook for 15 minutes over medium heat, stirring regularly. Cover pan with lid, remove from heat and let cool before refrigerating.
For the orzo: bring water, butter, and lemon juice to a boil in a saucepan or small stockpot. Add orzo, cover, and cook for 8-10 minutes until the grains are al dente and slightly chewy. (Remember, orzo may look like rice, but it’s pasta.) Drain any excess water. Once cool, add chopped mint and stir. (Cooking mint turns it brown and removes the bright, fresh flavor.)
For the pork: Combine the seasonings and a tablespoon of the oil and rub the mixture all over the meat. Marinate for a couple of hours. Heat the remaining oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Sear pork chops three minutes per side before turning down to medium-low heat. Cook for eight to ten minutes. Remove from the skillet, bring to room temperature, then refrigerate.
When you’re ready to serve, place each pork chop on a cup of the orzo (the cooked orzo should yield two cups) and top each with a generous dollop of peach chutney.