I stayed in a restored 19th-century brewery in San Antonio, Texas
On a recent visit to San Antonio, Lydia Spencer-Elliott checked into Hotel Emma, a stylish boutique hotel with its own private two-storey library
Set in a restored 19th-century brewery, Hotel Emma blends historic industrial charm with modern hospitality
Location
Hotel Emma is situated at the north end of the San Antonio River Walk in Texas, which was once somewhat of a dead zone – but was saved from irrelevance by the rejuvenation of the 16-block Pearl District. This area now houses the hotel, the Culinary Institute of America, around 20 restaurants, and dozens of boutique shops. So, there’s plenty to keep guests busy. It’s a lively, picturesque campus, with some of the best food spots in town.
In terms of sightseeing, the San Antonio Museum of Art is around 20 minutes away on foot along the water. The Alamo is a 35-minute stroll, and you can get to the heart of downtown in about 40 minutes. Alternatively, if you’d rather travel to the centre of town by boat, Rio water taxis stop on the river outside the hotel.
The hotel is around 20 minutes by taxi to San Antonio International Airport, and the Line 5 bus, which stops close to Hotel Emma, takes around 40 minutes.
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The vibe

Hotel Emma is about as cool as you’d expect a luxury hotel housed inside a refashioned brewery to be. The lobby is sleek and stylish, contrasting its checkered floor with original industrial features, including a red ammonia compressor and large ceiling fans.
With 146 rooms and seven floors, the hotel maintains its boutique feel through southern hospitality, and comfortable in-room design – and during my trip it never felt overcrowded, despite the fact I visited during San Antonio’s legendary rodeo.
Thanks to the Pearl’s numerous culinary offerings, including Hotel Emma’s Supper, the building is always abuzz with both guests and sharply dressed San Antonio locals.
Service
Staff are warm and attentive. At the culinary concierge desk in the lobby they will point guests towards the best food offerings the Pearl neighbourhood has to offer. I had to move multiple restaurant bookings during my stay due to a changing schedule, which may have prompted disapproving looks elsewhere – but at Hotel Emma it was no problem.
It’s easy order a taxi from the hotel to explore the rest of the city, and the reception desk is happy to store your luggage even after you’ve checked out.
Bed and bath
The bedrooms at Hotel Emma perfectly strike the balance between high-end and homey, with each cosy lamp-lit Classic room featuring high ceilings, a spacious bed made up with luxury Frette linens, soft Dos Carolinas robes to relax in, a 48-inch TV, Southern-style dark wood furniture, and tall windows offering views overlooking the Pearl area.
The main event, though, is the bathroom, which has a large white sink decorated with handmade blue and white Spanish porcelain tiles. The rainfall-style shower – complete with brass fixtures – is ginormous, with a spa-like design that includes a section to sit in nestled in one corner. You are not going to want to rush getting ready in this soft-lit haven.
Wardrobe space is a little limited for two people if you’re staying longer than a night or two.

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Food and drink
Food at Hotel Emma is a special experience. Their farm-to-table restaurant Supper is impressive but unpretentious, with must-try dishes such as crispy fried Brussels sprouts with balsamic and dijon mustard, and charred cabbage with miso tahini and chilli honey. Essentially, this place really knows how to make vegetables taste seriously delicious – as well as how to make a killer smokey martini. Dietaries are well catered to.
Every night’s stay at Hotel Emma includes complimentary breakfast for two from Supper, which can be taken in the restaurant – or delivered as room service – up to the value of $60 (£44). I opted for breakfast in bed and indulged in the excellent avocado and smoked salmon toast with cream cheese, red onion, and everything spice.
Also in the vicinity is Sternewirth, Hotel Emma’s cocktail and small plates bar, where we enjoyed several rounds of Hugo Spritz on the terrace as the sun set. Hotel guests are also given access to a private terrace area inside the bar for nights when the space gets busy.
The hotel has a gourmet market called Larder, where you can buy Southern Texan specialities, baked goods, wine, beer, coffee, and fresh bagels, soups and sandwiches. There’s even an option to buy a takeaway picnic basket to eat by the river.

Facilities
Hotel Emma has a spacious, well-equipped, third-floor gym that has floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking San Antonio’s riverwalk, which makes for a scenic start to the day.
Meanwhile on the top floor, the outdoor pool has plenty of umbrellas and loungers that are waiting for guests to spend an afternoon in the sun. Poolside refreshments are served from a 1960s beer delivery truck, offering everything from lunchtime salads to frozen cocktails.
Best of all, guests are given access to a stunning two-level private library – curated by novelist Sherry Kafka Wagner – where coffee is served each morning among 3,700 books. Warning: once you nestle into a leather armchair with the paper it can be hard to leave.

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Accessibility
Despite being a historic building, Hotel Emma is fully accessible with ramps at the entrance of the property and wheelchair-accessible public areas. Classic King, Landmark Double Queen, Landmark King, Terrace King, Terrace Double Queen and River Suites are all accessible room types, featuring roll-in showers or accessible bathtubs.
Pet policy
Hotel Emma allows service animals to stay with guests in their room. However, owners must fill in a Pet Registration Form and pay a $250 (£186) non-refundable cleaning fee, plus taxes.
Check-in/check-out
Check-in is from 3pm, check-out is 12pm.
Family friendly?
Children are welcome at Hotel Emma.

At a glance
Best thing: The historic setting, luxe design and buzzy atmosphere.
Perfect for: Couples who are looking to celebrate and love great food.
Not right for: Families wanting a kids’ club or other child-friendly activities.
Instagram from: The rooftop pool.
Address: 136 East Grayson Street, San Antonio, Texas 78215, United States
Phone: +1 210 448 8300
Website: thehotelemma.com
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Lydia was a guest of Hotel Emma.
FrankLin